Formalwear can be quite daunting if you are used to a casual style, yet every man will have an occasion where a suit and tie is a must, and this blog is here to help you pull it off!
1. Think about what suits your body shape.
If you are a bit of a gym bunny then of course you probably want to highlight your muscles, however squeezing your legs into slim fitting trousers can often be a bad look, and the same goes for your shirt.
Getting your outfit tailored may be more expensive than just going to your local Primark or River Island but it will ensure that the garment will be the perfect fit for your body shape and therefore look miles better. In a recent interview for GQ Boxer Anthony Joshua talks about how important tailoring is. Due to his body shape he can’t wear skinny jeans as they ‘look like leggings’ on him, proving even top celebs have to be conscious and match their style to their shape.
2. Jacket Rules
Benson and Clegg are a bespoke tailoring menswear brand, and their motto is “Fashion is temporary, style is permanent’
You can never go wrong with a tailored suit and Benson and Clegg stress the importance of the cut of a jacket. Technically the jacket length should be the midpoint between the nape of the neck and the floor. The length of the jacket is a very important attribute to harmonising the overall look giving a much-needed balance between the torso and the legs. There is currently a trend for shorter jacket lengths with more causal looks, perhaps if paired with jeans, but if you are attending a formal occasion Benson and Clegg advise opting for the standard length. If you are wearing a dark suit jacket then a lighter pocket square will work best.
3. To waistcoat or not to waistcoat?
We say yes! A waistcoat can transform an outfit from being generally smart to gentlemanly suave. They are becoming increasingly popular too; during the world cup England manager Gareth Southgate wore a series of different waistcoats and this saw sales during that time jump up to 35%.
If you do choose to wear a waistcoat, you want it to be a subtle addition to your attire and so avoid the shiny polyester look as this may have people mistaking you for a waiter! Avoid bright patterns and unnecessary details, instead light pinstriped or checked prints often work well with most suits. Of course there are a lot of suits with matching waistcoats and so it depends on what look you want to go for!
Don’t be afraid to branch out with different colours. For example, if your suit is navy blue a grey waistcoat can work surprisingly well and vice versa. Always make sure your waistcoat is long enough. Favourbrook, who specialise in occasion wear, stress the importance of getting an exact fit for your waistcoat. Historically, waistcoats used to stop just below the belly button. However, today, gentlemen tend to wear their trousers considerably lower. Therefore it’s important to get your length measurement correct, as there is nothing worse than a glaring strip of shirt showing above the trousers.
Its not just the clothes you wear that can make a difference to your style and your look. Accessories can make a huge impact! Items such as cufflinks, watches, lapel pins, and even pocket watches are often overlooked as accessorising is often thought of as quite a ladylike tradition but if worn right they can finish off your look with a luxury feel.
Here at Deakin & Francis we think it’s a sin for a shirt to be worn without cufflinks! Whether it’s a normal day in the office, a social event or a black tie event cufflinks are the perfect way to inject a bit of personality into your attire whilst still being functional. And it doesn’t stop there, a quirky lapel pin, a classic tie slide or a traditional signet ring are all perfect for showing off a glimpse of personality and bringing an outfit to life.
And finally grooming can alter your look dramatically. Facial hair can change your face shape; a little bit of stubble can make you look years older if you are blessed with a baby face and a big bushy beard can be quite slimming. Last year saw the popularity of the thick long beard as men put down their razors and let nature take its true course yet this year we are already noticing that mid length stubble is the new long beard.
The man topknot is finally dying a slow death (hurrah!) and it is a cleaner and neater look that currently popular for 2018. Jermyn Street Barbers in London have said that there are a lot of men asking for short back and sides with longer hair on top so that they can sweep it over for that 1950’s look. Male style icon David Beckham is a big advocate of this haircut and a string of other male celebs are following the trend too. Mens grooming director Camrmello Guastella from Gielly Green says to ask for the hair on top to be cut to around 3 cm. The sides should be short but graduated to the top and ask for the fringe to be irregular and choppy.